April 24/03
I went with Vito on this one, because Pete was in the flatlands of Saskatchewan. I wasn't sure how much snow there
would be, but there was a lot less than I was expecting. We did the east to west traverse and managed a decent time
(2hrs 15min up, 45min down) even though I'm still outta shape! I was quite curious as to what the cable was going
to be like, which started up much controversy. We both negotiated the crux without using the cable, which actually caused
more problems than if it wasn't there - my ice axe on my bag kept catching on the cable, scaring me everytime I felt
resistance on my back!
After the crux, we could tell the route went down the gully a little the up again on the other side of a wall.
I saw a 'route' directly across from where you come down from the crux, and started towards it as the gully had snow in it
(perfectly managble stuff, but I thought this would be just as easy). Upon traversing some ledges I got to a slab, which
from afar looked like it was just steep with plenty of holds. As it turns out it was vertical, with few holds.
Still, not realising how difficult it would be I started out on it. Lets just say that it took me about 2 minutes to
traverse 15 feet. Halfway through I told Vito to go down the proper way - he didn't need any persuasion! I was
not pleased with my decision, as I had a (tested) 'solid' handhold pull out after I had made the move, and had to kick ice
out of one hold. It was probably about 5.5 or 5.6 rock & more exposed than the real crux - not scrambling!
This is easily the worst route finding blunder I've ever made, and not having made many in my past, I was quite humiliated!
Descent was quick, fun and uneventful.
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The crux: cable comes from left and moves down at Vito's feet |
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Vito going the correct way after the crux |
My little fiasco would have occured just out of sight in the top right of the photo. As you can see in the photo,
the snow wasn't an issue and would have been much easier than my inane choice!
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Ahh, watching other mountains get blasted by bad weather. |
RT: 3.75hrs
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28/05/04 Pete heading down the west side of Yam. RT: 3.5hrs |
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